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Diamond Talk

Jewelry And Diamond Talk

� 2007 William R. Lieberum � All Rights Reserved
 

While shopping around for a diamond at any store or diamond dealer be sure to ask each dealer for a 10X loupe so that you may properly examine the interior of the diamond under magnification. It may be in your best interest to purchase a 10X eye loupe directly from a jeweler supply house if you are going to buy the diamond privately.

The ideal best quality loupe to purchase is by Bausch & Lomb and it is called the Hastings 10X Triplet that is corrected for chromatic aberration. The absolute best way to view clarity of a diamond is with a stereoscopic binocular microscope with dark field illumination.

There are such microscopes manufactured specifically for observing diamonds and gemstones. Any store that features such a microscope is obviously in tune with the scientific clarity grading aspect of diamonds and is likely to be quite specific and detailed with all other aspects of diamond grading.

Should a diamond for example be clarity graded as SI-2 have the jeweler explain to you precisely why it is SI-2. Know the nature and location of the inclusions present in the diamond. Be sure to view the inclusions yourself under the loupe or preferably in the microscope.

Diamonds are assigned a clarity grade under a power of 10X. When observing a diamond with a loupe bring the loupe right up to your eye and then slowly bring the diamond in the tweezers to a short distance beneath the loupe till the diamond comes into focus. Always look through the top of the diamond or the table of the diamond to view inclusions.

Pick up the diamond in the tweezers by putting the diamond table down and firmly position the diamond within each side of the tweezer. After carefully observing the diamond through the table, observe the side of the diamond so that you can view the girdle of the diamond. The girdle is the border separating the crown or top section of the diamond from the pavilion or bottom section of the girdle.

Be sure to ask the jeweler to allow you to view the color of the diamond against a master comparison set. The jeweler will position the diamond against another diamond of known color and you may compare the diamond to another diamond of known color. It is in this way that color is determined in diamonds. This master set would have been originally color graded by the Gemological Institute of America. Ideally the observation of color should be done under specific fluorescent lighting conditions in a Diamond Lite machine and wearing a 4X optivisor. The GIA Diamond Lite machine houses all the official comparison diamonds on a special tray that fits into the machine.

The diamonds are set in order of color within an angled slot so that you may observe the color of these diamonds by looking through the body of the diamonds. The diamond in question is positioned on the angled slot next to the comparison diamond and in this way a direct comparison can be made with all the comparison diamonds in order to ascertain the correct colour of the diamond in question. The diamond in question is shifted from one position to another within the angled slot so that it is between two different stones with each shift. A qualified jeweler or gemologist with this equipment should be able to demonstrate this to you.


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