Aquamarine: This variety of Beryl is transparent,
and comes in shades of blue and blue-green. However, the most admired aquamarine
color, which is sky-blue, is produced by applying heat treatment to a greenish
or yellow-brown beryl. Heat will enhance its blue color permanently.
Citrine: A variety of crystalline quartz that
is found in shades of yellow, red-brown or orange-brown. Most come from Brazil.
The name itself is derived from the French word, citron, which means lemon,
the color that this gem generally displays.
Cleavage: The propensity of crystalline minerals
to split in one or several directions along, or parallel to, certain planes.
Cultured Pearl: A pearl produced through an
artificial process that mimics the organic process by which a natural pearl
is created. An irritant such as a bead, grain of sand, or piece of mantle tissue
is inserted by human intervention into the body of a mollusk, and becomes the
nucleus of a pearl once that mollusk secretes nacre to cover the irritation.
Crystal Structure: Natural plane surfaces in
a crystal that are symmetrically arranged, and by their form express a specific
internal structure that is the outcome of atomic arrangement.
Emerald: One of the most valued of all precious
stones. The emerald is a type of beryl with a signature color ranging from pale
green to the highly sought-after dark velvety green. Elements of chromium in
the crystal produce the color, while inclusions in the stone create what is
called the jardin, or garden, of the emerald. The recognized emerald cut is
essentially a rectangular shape with step-cut sides and chamfered corners. Clear
resins are often used to permeate the open fissures in some emeralds, while
hardeners are added to solidify those resins, ensuring the permanent clarity
of the stone.
Fracture: This determines the quality of a
surface, obtained by breaking a crystal in a direction other than that of its
cleavage.
Garnet: A dark red mineral, actually one of
six main varieties of gemstones related by similar chemical composition. Used
by the ancients as inlays, formally cut en cabochon in Victorian jewelry while
backed by gold or silver foil, they are today usually found in step cuts.
Hardness: The ability of a stone to resist
any abrasion short of cleavage.
Imitation Gem: Cheap materials, such as glass
or plastic, used to mimic the quality and structure of real gems.
Moonstone: A version of transparent or translucent
feldspar, customarily cut en cabochon. The stone possesses a sheen known as
adularescence, which comes from the stone's alternating layers of albite that
diffuse light over the dome. The finest varieties display a bluish sheen on
their surface, while the commoner versions with thicker layers of albite produce
a whiter sheen.
Opal: A gemstone whose chemical composition
is an amorphous, gelatinous, hydrous silica containing varying degrees of water
and traces of metal oxides. The two varieties are the iridescent Precious Opal,
known also as the Noble Opal, and the milky white Common Opal. The opal, like
the moonstone, is customarily cut en cabochon. However, the beautiful stone
known as the Fire Opal is often carved, engraved or faceted.
Optical Properties: The ability of gems to
handle light. These properties include refraction; transparency; dichronism,
which is the ability of gems to display two separate colors when viewed in different
direction; and fire, a gem's display of prismatic colors.
Peridot: A gem mined in antiquity on the Egyptian
island of St. John, in the Red Sea. It is a golden-green variety of a mineral
called olivine, and includes hues from leek-green to yellow-green. Because of
its distinctive green color, this gem has alternately been confused with emerald
and chrysoberyl. Though customarily faceted, peridot has also been polished
in a process called Tumbling, or sometimes set in its natural, raw form.
Ruby: One of the great precious stones, usually
more costly than a diamond of the same size. It is a red variety of a transparent
corundum. Trace quantities of oxide of chromium in the stone account for the
various shades of red that range from pink to deep red, or to the dark red-purple
hue known as Pigeon's-Blood. Rubies contain minute, irregular inclusions, while
certain stones exhibit an optical phenomenon call Asterism, in which a star-like
figure is seen in some crystals by reflected light. Rubies are usually set in
brilliant or mixed cuts.
Sapphire: A precious gem derived from a form
of transparent corundum, with a color range from pale cornflower-blue to deep
blue, or to the highly preferable Kashmir Blue. Sapphires with colors other
than blue are generally referred to as fancy sapphires. Those colors can vary
from white, yellow, green, pink, purple, brown and black. The gems are very
hard, with a vitreous luster, while minute amounts of oxide of iron and titanium
in the stone probably account for the distinctive blue of the sapphire. Their
colors are often enhanced through heating.
Synthetic Gem: A term given to a manufactured
gem that duplicates a natural gem chemically, physically and optically.
Tanzanite: A transparent variation of the mineral,
Epidote. Though tanzanite in various colors has been found, the gem's traditional
color is a rich violet-blue. Heating the gem to the desired hue is the process
by which that particularly gorgeous tint is achieved. The transparent varieties
of the gem are usually faceted, while the cloudier versions of tanzanite are
often cut en cabochon.
Topaz: A gemstone varying in color from canary-yellow,
orange-yellow, pale blue or green, pink, gold-brown or sherry-brown, and colorless.
The stone is often irradiated and then heated to a rich sky blue, which is permanent
and in no way harms the gem. The stone is extremely hard though extremely breakable,
having a strong cleavage. It possesses a vitreous luster, as well as double
refraction, low dichroism and color dispersion. Often this gemstone, in its
colorless variety, is mounted as a mixed or a brilliant cut.
Tourmaline: A gem with an intricate chemical
composition that produces a variety of colors, including blue, red, pink, green,
brown, yellow and black. There is also a highly prized colorless variety. Heat
is used either to lighten or enhance the colors of certain tourmalines. In many
cases the tourmaline is known for its ability to reveal different hues from
different angles, a characteristic known as dichroism. In addition, fibrous
inclusions in certain stones create an optical formation commonly called Cat's-Eye.
The tourmaline's colors are often heightened by the specific method of gem cutting
used on them, which more often than not with this stone is the mixed cut.